CUTWORK, TRAY CLOTH

A charming cutwork linen tray cloth stitched in Western Australia in mid 20th C.

In Australia, hand stitched table linen, worked by the lady of the house, showcased her skills and added glamour to the home.

Floral cutwork design with eyelets inside the flowers.

In cutwork, the forerunner to needlelace, the design of leaves, flowers, and figures are surrounded with buttonhole stitch. Areas of the background fabric are cut away.

A bit about cutwork:

In England, cutwork was expensive and so prized that Mary Tudor passed Sumptuary Laws which forbade it being worn by anyone below the rank of baron.

In France, Cardinal Richelieu, Minister to Louis XIII in 17th C, deplored the sumptuous dress of the French court, including the elaborate Venetian lace which was much in demand by the French aristocracy, resulting in poor balance of trade. In spite of heavy taxes, trade continued.

Richelieu then called skilled Venetian lace makers to France, set up schools and workshops, encouraged the application of new techniques and helped to establish lace industry in France. Cutwork remained in vogue in the 17th with designs of large flower sprays and surrounds in high relief.

In 19th C, popular study of this particular embroidery inspired bold cutwork with buttonhole edges and picots. The term RICHELIEU seems to have been used to describe this work.