LACE, BOBBIN, EDGING

Exquisite Valenciennes Bobbin Lace Edging in Ultra-Fine Linen, Flanders c.1720–1740

An extremely rare and exquisite example of early 18th-century European lace craftsmanship, this handmade Valenciennes bobbin lace edging was created in Flanders between 1720 and 1740. It is worked in exceptionally fine linen thread — estimated at 1200 count, compared with the modern standard of 320. Thread of this quality is no longer produced, making this piece as technically extraordinary as it is visually refined.

The lace is completely flat, with a closely woven floral design. The characteristic Valenciennes technique includes motifs outlined and detailed with tiny holes, giving clarity and softness to the pattern. The ground is a “point de neige” (snowflake-like) mesh, noted for its airy geometry and technical complexity. A scalloped edge with delicate picots completes the design, suggesting this lace once trimmed a high-status garment or accessory.

Valenciennes lace was named after the northern French town of Valenciennes — a major lace-making centre in historic Flanders. From the 16th to 18th centuries, this region produced some of the finest laces in Europe, including Mechlin, Binche, and Valenciennes styles. By the early 1700s, while Indian muslin rose in popularity for accessories, Flemish lacemakers responded by creating lighter, drapable laces in ultra-fine thread — capturing the soft, flowing qualities of muslin while retaining richly patterned design.

Lace remained a symbol of wealth and status across European courts for over 300 years. This edging is not only a rare survivor of that era but a masterpiece of design, material, and manual dexterity — the kind of textile once worn only by the highest ranks of society.