LACE, CHANTILLY, SHAWL

This delicate 19th century black French Chantilly lace circular cape, hand made bobbin lace.

The centre back has a large naturalistic floral arrangement worked in half-and-whole stitch to achieve the effect of light and shadow in the pattern. Such large pieces could not be made whole but were made up of strips

4 to 6 inches wide or split into smaller, manageable sections or motifs and joined using ‘Point de Raccroc’ stitch, invisible to the naked eye.

Chantilly was one of the favourite laces at the French court, particularly of Marie Antoinette. However production ended with the French Revolution 1789 as lace makers, like the aristocrats, perished on the guillotine. Production resumed with Napoleon (1804-1815) who encouraged the French lace industry but the quality was never as fine.

Chantilly lace is known for its fine ground, outlined pattern, and abundant detail. The pattern is outlined in cordonnet, a flat untwisted strand. The best Chantilly laces were made of silk, and were generally black, which made them suitable for mourning wear. White Chantilly lace was also made, both in linen and silk, most were made of silk. The black silk Chantilly lace became especially popular and there was a large market in Spain and the Americas.

Chantilly lace remained popular in 19th century Europe, when many fashionable women wore black or white Chantilly shawls made in Brussels or Ghent. (Ref Wikipedia)