Hair work mourning Albert chain or fob - 1914

1914
Overview

Albert or watch fob chain with fine woven, light brown hair terminating into three heart shaped 9ct rose gold sections - one at either end and another in the centre.
The top attachment is circular with a spring loaded catch. It has a ring below which joins it to the first decorative, heart shaped section. The heart is at the centre of what appears to be wings, perhaps representing a butterfly, with scroll work to the outside.
The bottom attachment is identical, but has three chain links to which a dog clip clasp is joined.
The larger, central heart has the same winged design and is engraved with initials and date.
There may be a central cord running through the woven sections of chain, but if so, it is artfully concealed by the design.

Historical information

Mourning jewellery represents a connection to a deceased loved one. Mourning jewellery could take many forms - ring, bracelet, cuff links, brooch, or a fob chain as in this case.
It was the death of Queen Victoria’s beloved husband, Prince Albert, in 1861 that revived the popularity of mourning jewellery. Woven hair chains such as this are commonly referred to as Albert chains. Jewellers offered a range of decorative attachments to choose from and the family provided the hair.

Several pieces of mourning jewellery may have been produced to commemorate one deceased person, with funds in the will set aside for family members. They could also be worn after the formal stage of mourning for the rest of the owner’s life.

This particular example was made towards the end of the practice of making such jewellery - 1914. It is also unusual in having an intricate, open weave pattern. Most such chains had a central cord for strength around which the hair was woven in a tight, rope like formation.
It may have been worn by either a man or a woman, either as a pocket watch fob or a chatelaine.

This chain was purchased from Uruguay, but was likely to have been made in either Europe or the United Kingdom.

Details

Details

Registration number
cwa-org-119-RoW00490
Width
23 mm
Height or length
410 mm
Depth
8 mm
Inscriptions and markings

Engraved on central gold heart decoration:

"S.B.
1914"

Year
Primary significance criteria
Artistic or aesthetic significance
Historic significance
Social or spiritual significance
Comparative significance criteria
Interpretive capacity
Object’s condition or completeness
Rare or representative
Recollections of War

Recollections of War

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Close-up of mourning Albert chain made from woven human hair
Close-up of mourning Albert chain made from woven human hair
Mourning Albert chain made from woven human hair - full length
Mourning Albert chain made from woven human hair - full length
Top attachment of mourning Albert chain made from woven human hair
Top attachment of mourning Albert chain made from woven human hair
Bottom attachment of mourning Albert chain made from woven human hair
Bottom attachment of mourning Albert chain made from woven human hair
Front of central decoration of mourning Albert chain showing engraved inscription
Front of central decoration of mourning Albert chain showing engraved inscription
Reverse of central decoration of mourning Albert chain
Reverse of central decoration of mourning Albert chain

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