WEAVING, SEGMENT OF DRESS

This is a rare fabric segment, possibly a sleeve, from a deconstructed gown of Spitalfields, London silk brocade, circa 1750-1780 purchased by the donor when she was living there in mid 20th century. The pink silk brocade, has design of parallel lines and scattered woven silk sprigs of flowers, some white and some coloured.

Floral brocaded dress silks remained in vogue throughout most of the eighteenth century, and new designs introduced annually ensured that members of the English and Continental courts and other wealthy consumers regularly renewed their wardrobes to demonstrate their up-to-date fashionable status.

Spitalfields’ silk industry was established by French Protestant (Huguenot) refugees who settled in the area in 1685. The Huguenots brought with them the new fashions from France and the skills with which to create sophisticated ball gowns and beautiful fabric details. Spitalfields became the centre of London's textile industries. By the Victorian era, the 19th century, the English silk industry had entered a long decline brought on by imports of French silk and imports of printed calicos from India.

Pattern designers: designs, patterned or flower’d, were designed especially for clients. Designers painted designs on squared paper for the Huguenot weavers to weave. Some were simple, others, hugely complex, taking 4 months to weave one dress.

Confirmation of date based on similar item offered for auction by Dominic Winter Textiles on 17th July 2025.

Fabric Pieces from a deconstructed gown of Spitalfields silk brocade, circa 1730-1750. LOT 445

https://www.dominicwinter.co.uk/Auction/Details/ant25b-antiques--historic-textiles/?au=862