LACE, BOBBIN, LAPPET

Rare Flemish Mechlin Bobbin Lace Lappet in Fine Linen and Silk, c.1720–1740

This exquisite Mechlin lace lappet, handmade in Flanders between 1720 and 1740, is a rare and beautiful example of early 18th-century European lace-making. Crafted in exceptionally fine linen thread, the floral motifs are delicately outlined with loosely spun silk cord, giving the design softness and definition. The lace features a plaited and twisted hexagonal mesh ground, with areas of minute “point de neige” (snowflake-like) mesh, adding depth and textural contrast. The outer edge is scalloped and finished with tiny picots, all executed with incredible precision.

Mechlin lace (originally a general term for bobbin lace from Flanders) gained particular prominence in the late 17th and early 18th centuries. Its hallmark is the creation of the ground (réseau) and pattern simultaneously on the lace pillow. This seamless method allowed for flowing, organic floral patterns, which were especially popular among the European nobility and court fashion.

By the 1720s, Flemish lacemakers responded to the growing popularity of imported Indian muslin by creating lighter, more supple lace styles that could mimic muslin’s elegant drape while preserving the elaborate ornamentation of traditional lace. Alongside Valenciennes and Binche, Mechlin lace stood at the forefront of this transformation in European textile aesthetics.

Worn as a lappet — a decorative strip of lace pinned to a woman’s headdress or cap — this piece would have signalled refinement, wealth, and impeccable taste in its original context.