LACE, BOBBIN, VALENCIENNES, EDGING

Fine Valenciennes hand bobbin lace, made late 19th century in Valenciennes, France, characterised by the diamond mesh and the ccontinuous row of tiny holes which outlines the design and the separate features of the motifs.

Very time consuming to make, requiring many bobbins, meant this lace was very expensive and usually made in narrow widths.

Throughout the middle decades of the 18th C, Valenciennes was in great demand with the aristocracy who prized it not only for the delicacy, and beauty of its designs but also for the strength and firmness of its structure which made it very durable even through repeated washings. Its smoothness and strength made it particularly suitable for underwear (a favourite with Queen Victoria), babies’ wear and trimmings for bedsheets and pillowcases

This scalloped edging, 35 mm wide clearly exemplifies the diamond reseau (mesh) and the tiny holes around the motifs of Valenciennes bobbin lace.

HISTORY

Valenciennes bobbin lace originated in Valenciennes, France, and flourished from about 1705 to the 19th century on a diminished scale especially when it could be made by machine. During the French Revolution, the number of lace makers in the city fell from 4000 to 250 and demand for lace on men’s clothes fell.

Early Valencienne lace was extremely expensive as it took an immense time to work, using a vaste number of bobbins with such fine thread: 1000 for an elaborate piece and 300 on a piece 5cm wide. Only 1 ¾ ins (38mm) could be produced in a 15 hour working day – 4am to 8pm. Because of this, much of 19th C lace was narrow trimmings and insertions.

Due to the extreme fineness of the thread - 1200 count - the lace needed to be made in a damp atmosphere, to prevent the threads from snapping. Lacemakers were young girls, their hands not roughened by housework, who laboured in damp cellars, often going blind by age 30.

Throughout the middle decades of the 18th C, Valencienne was in great demand with the aristocracy who prized it not only for the delicacy, and beauty of its designs but also for the strength and firmness of its structure which made it very durable even through repeated washings. Its smoothness and strength made it particularly suitable for underwear (a favourite with Queen Victoria), babies’ wear and trimmings for bedsheets and pillowcases.

After 1830, machines were able to copy hand made bobbin lace and enabled larger pieces to be made. From that time on Belgium became the greatest producer of Valenciennes. But it was also produced in Northampton and Exeter in England, and a variation in Russia and Bohemia (Czechoslovakia).