BODICE: BLACK BONED TOP WITH LACE AND BEAD EMBROIDERERY

A two-piece dress owned by Abrilda McKennay of Onslow Road Shenton Park.
Abrilda McKennay nee Hancock was born 23.4.1878 Moonta South Australia and died 23.8.1962, Como, Western Australia. Married William McKennay in 20.2.1901 Broken Hill, South Australia. William born 27.11.1878 Kupunda South Australian, died 9.4.1926 Perth, Western Australia. They had three children. William, Samuel and Mary. This dress was donated by Abrilda’s Great Grand-daughter.

The skirt and bodice are made of a black floral silk damask. It appears to be machine made with hand stitched embellishments and structures.
The bodice is stiffened with whale bone that has been hand stitched inside the casings and to the inner seam. There are twelve pieces of whalebone in this bodice which was common at the time in Europe. This would have been a very stiff, structured dress to wear, whereas we often see less boning in Edwardian dresses in WA.
The bodice fastens at the front with two sets of hook and eye closures. These were common in the outer layer of dresses before zippers were invented. Laces were less common by the Victorian and Edwardian period.
The puff sleeves were the fashion at the time – known as Leg of Mutton sleeve. They puff out at the top but become close fitting at the elbow with beaded lace at the wrist.
There are two panels of black sequins and beaded floral needle lace down the chest. High collar is of black needle lace with rose design - gives the high neckline which was common in Victorian and early Edwardian style. Towards 1910 we see dresses with stiffened collars – many with boning which was called the standing collar.
The embellishment lace has been hand stitched down to the outer layer.
Back has three handmade rosettes at the centre shoulder line and two at the centre waistline. Beading covers to mid shoulder.
The centre back finishes at a deep V which draws the eye to the waistline. There are three pleats of fabric around the waist which act to draw the waist in for the hourglass silhouette as well as working like a sash or cummerbund – which were very popular at the time.
Hand and machine stitched A-line skirt in the same black silk damask. Full length made of six panels to give the bell-shaped full silhouette. Skirt has hook and eye closures the entire length of skirt. Two pleats of fabric at the bottom of skirt. Single hook at centre back to connect to bodice. There is no train on the dress but the heavy fabric and pleats at the back would have allowed for a petticoat to be worn underneath.